Another sunny climb – A’ Bhuidheanach Bheag and Carn na Caim

Having some time off work coincide with the warmest March in a long time was most
enjoyable for me, not least because I got to go out to the hills!

Iain and I had planned to get up early and head to Glen Etive to climb Stob Coir’ an Albannaich and Meall nan Eun and had set the alarm for around 5am.  It didn’t go off though (or we didn’t hear it!) and we sleepily woke up at 7am!  We decided to climb easier/shorter hills as we had less time so headed to the Drumochter Hills.

Yes, I got stuck on the cairn!

We parked at a B&B at Balsporran Cottages and headed towards the hills which form the east side of the Drumochter Pass.  Now, I’m not going to lie, they did look pretty dull compared to the ones across the way but we carried on regardless as we had little time.  We headed through a lot of heather and came to a pretty clear path which meandered up the mountain.

Climbing along the path was very wave-like, rounded bump after rounded bump fooling you into thinking you’re near the ridge when there’s just another bump to go.  Anyway, when we reached the ridge…it was pretty flat and desolate.  We had to check the map and compass to decipher in which direction to walk in the grassy landscape.  I had been pretty sluggish the whole way up but got a good pace on to the summit of A’Bhuidheanach Bheag.  Seeing a snow hare also helped spur me on! The view from the top wasn’t quite as spectacular as Mayar just two weeks before but I really enjoyed being out in the sun…if I did get a little windswept.

We carried on towards Carn na Caim across a clear path.  By the time we reached the summit I was a bit knackered and glad to be there.  To get back down we doubled back along the path until a crossroads which took us back down the mountain and back towards the car park.

It wasn’t the most exciting walk I’ve ever done but as usual I enjoyed getting out on the hills so would happily do it again!

Climbing Driesh and Mayar on a beautiful spring day

Hooray, I finally managed to get out and go for a hike and what a wonderful time I had too!

We had to walk through the forest

Iain and I got up bright and early at 5…yes 5am (Iain is a big fan of the early rise and somehow managed to get me to agree).  We travelled bleary eyed – at least on my part – to  Glen Doll and parked the car.

We saw the sunrise as we drove up and it was really beautiful.  We had checked the weather forecast and thought we’d be in for a decent day.  The route took us through a forestry path which is meandering and not too steep.  There’s two routes, but we chose the one called ‘Kilbo Path’.  It took us through a forest and eventually brought us out to the Shank of Drumfollow, a high col between the two summits.  We could hear the wind bustling above us but were protected inside the slopes.

We chose to ascend Mayar (928m) first, which took us to the right and across flat, grassy slopes.  We followed an old fence as we strolled to the top in scorching sun.  We even managed to spy a winter hare which hopped away too quickly to take a photograph! We easily reached the summit of Mayar and the view from the top was astounding.  The sun was shining, the sky was cloud-free and we could see across the whole Cairngorm plateau.  On the way back down we spied a Ptarmigan, still wearing its little winter outfit.  It stood perfectly still allowing us to take its picture, waddled away and flew off.  Was really a highlight of the day.

We descended Mayar, headed back to the col and started on Driesh (947m).  On first sight it seems quite steep but we found it reasonably easy
and reached the summit fairly quickly.  Again, the view from the top was incredible.

We started back down the hill in the beautiful sunny weather, shedding layers as we went. The sun had clearly brought everyone out as we passed a lot of people on the way down.  I really cannot recommend Mayar and Driesh enough for an easy, enjoyable walk with incredible scenery!  Although, if it’s sunny, take sun-cream!!  A lesson I’ve now learned…

The beautiful view from the top of Mayar

A trip down memory lane to the most amazing trek of my life – Mount Kilimanjaro

I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in August 2009 and it was the most amazing and gratifying six days of my life – not just reaching ‘the roof of Africa’ but the trek as a whole and the sights and climbing partners I met.  This is why I’ve decided to post some pictures chronicling my journey as part of my blog.

Harriet and me at Mechame gate

I embarked upon the 5,895 metre climb while volunteering in Tanzania for three months.  I climbed Kili with two fantastic girls, Harriet and Cari.  Without their company (and warmth at night!) I don’t know if I’d have made it to the top.

My lovely and very patient guides

A first glimpse of the summit

Sunset above the clouds

Men trudge up 'breakfast' carrying supplies for the numerous climbers

Our group (Cari, me and Hattie are three girls at right)

Freezing but happy at the top!

The finale! Emstrur to Þórsmörk

We woke up bright and breezy to lovely clear weather and began on the final day of the trek!  Again the views were spectacular as we were walking towards the glacier.  Soon into the trek we were met with a mesmerising view of the glacier, many photographs were taken and we carried on.

We also came to bridges across part of the canyon, the water was running so fast.  As I swung down the rope to the bridge I couldn’t help but think what would happen if I fell in.

The trail was pretty hilly and ash covered but all I could think about was the impending river crossing.  I kept hearing phantom rushes of water, fearing the next crossing.  Then it came.

Iain crossed first, then Ricardo pretty easily and Iain threw over one of his trainers to me.  Then, he threw the second terribly and it landed right in the middle of the fast flowing river!  So, I embarked on my crossing wearing one trainer and one pulled up hiking sock – good look.  I used my hiking pole this time (why I didn’t the first time I had no idea) and made it across!  Freezing but joyous I carried on with the trail.

The last bit of the trail was awful – all up hill and I really did think my legs were going to drop off there and then.  Eventually we made it though and it was lovely to get to the final hut which was situated overlooking the glacier in a quaint little valley.

Ricardo headed back on the bus of Reykjavik and Iain and I celebrated with a much needed (but extremely over priced) bottle of cola and chocolate.

We left the following day – and even felt an earthquake that night!

In which I fall in a glacial river – Álftavatn to Emstrur

We left the hut at 9am in glorious sunshine and the trail took us through lush green mountains and past streams you only see in fairy tales.  It was so enjoyable walking the trail looking to the left at the glacier and to the right the mountains. 

Quite oddly, there was an iron man marathon taking place the same day so people were running past us.  They were running the whole way, something I found hard to comprehend!  We cheered them all along.

The main memory of this day though is of me falling in a glacial river…yes.  I had prepared myself well for the crossing, boots off and slung round my neck, shorts on and flip flops on.

Note how I am very wet, I had just fallen in the river

Due to the race, there was a rope across the river which I think gave us the impression we should cross there.  Wrong.  In retrospect that was where the jeeps cross, not people.  Iain had made it safely across and was waiting for me so I began following a man in front.  Half way across my leg had got caught in the current, I fell to the left plunging my boots into the freezing cold water, soaked my bag, lost my flip flops and floundered up again.  I wasn’t safe though, I stumbled once more and I fell to the other side, cutting my leg and foot.  I shivered towards the river bank and left the river, blood streaming from my right leg and foot.  I was laughing as I left although slightly bemused.  Soaked I had to change my clothes like a child at the beach and pour out the river of water that was in my boots (which my socks were in).  Dry clothes and socks on I squelched along the rest of the trail with soggy boots and a leaky bag.

The trek following my misdemeanour was long and we travelled along flat, ash-covered ground.  When I got to the Emstrur hut my back had soaked my trousers and my feet were filled with damp – I was ecstatic to get there.  The hut, again was cosy and because of the race we got free leftover chocolate!  Once we had settled in we took a trip to the canyon, which was unbelievable.  It was so vast and I was so glad I went to see it. 

Had an inspiring time in the hut at night with Iain, Ricardo and a hilarious English man called Richard chatting about past travels and future plans.

Hobbit trails and freezing rivers – Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn

After a roasty toasty night in the Hrafntinnusker hut we left towards a rather cloudy and miserable path.  The route took us through a valley still filled with quite a lot of snow.  After about 45 minutes the clouds lifted to reveal glorious sunshine and colourful rhyolite mountains.  I had to stop and look around, the glacier covered mountains were just astonishing and seemed to be endless.

To begin with the path was covered in ash

The path was quite up and down over a lot of black ash, I assumed from the Eyjafjallajokul eruption which caused so much chaos!  I instantly enjoyed the trek so much more being able to see the views and feel the sun (call me a fair weather climber!).  We passed more bubbling brooks – literally bubbling out of the earth and snow caves melting away by the minute.  At one point we had to trudge up a squishy hill of sulphur which was quite a bizarre experience.  We had by now picked up a companion for the journey, a lovely Portuguese man called Ricardo.

However, we soon saw the most amazing view

After we had been walking for around two hours we turned a corner and were faced with the most breath taking view.  To the left was a shimmering white glacier, to the right were almost triangular mountains and in the middle a sparkling lake and grassy trails.  It really was the stuff of fairy tales and I don’t think I’ll forget it as long as I live.  It was also a bit of a shock to see so much greenery as before it had been dull black ash.  We walked down a very steep path to reach a river crossing.  Iain, being Iain, decided to see if he could find a better way through while I joined two French ladies to take the sensible way…shortly followed by Iain!  It looked like a babbling brook and I didn’t think much about crossing it – until I stepped in.  It was utterly freezing, which makes sense since it is run off from the glacier.  It surely refreshed my feet though. 

The remainder of the path, which reminded me of hobbit trails, was relatively flat and was a really enjoyable trek.  We arrived at the Alftavatn hut after about four hours, situated at a large lake it seemed like the perfect place to relax.  Unfortunately it started to pour and we were barricaded in the hut, playing cards and eating freeze-dried food for the rest of the night.  I did manage to escape though to have a surprisingly good (and hot!) shower despite being in the middle of the Icelandic mountains.

Glacier covered mountains

Laugavegurinn hiking trail – Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

Apparently there was an earthquake during the night but I was blissfully unaware, sound asleep in the cosy hut at Landmannalaugar, the first camp.

Rhyolite mountains

Iain and I left the camp at 9am on July 14 – past the gorgeous geothermal pool we had taken a dip in the night before – with some trepidation.  You see, the warden had informed us that we should be prepared to turn back as the weather was incredibly foggy and since we were climbing to 1000 metres it could be risky.  We continued anyway and passed an interesting sight almost straight away!  After walking through a maze of dried, shiny black lava we reached our first sulphur pit.  From the amount of steam fuming from the ground I thought it would be huge but it was just a tiny hole in the ground, with white sulphur around the edges and a ghastly eggy smell.  It was fascinating to see, and for a while at least, made me forget about how knackered I was getting.

Iain at a sulphur pit

The climb was very steep but the view was incredible.  Due to the volcanic activity in the area the mountains were red, orange and brown and looked unreal.  Adding to that the heavy ice and snow still on the pathway, I really did feel like I was walking through some Norse legend and an ogre could leap out from behind the mountains at any time.

About half way along the path (which we navigated partly by map and partly through following sticks along the way) we came to a small glacial river with an ice cave engulfing most of it.  The earth below was so hot and volcanically active the water was just boiling out of the ground, it was amazing.  After gazing at that for a while we started back on the trail – with the weather getting increasingly foggy.

In fact, we could barely see the next stick when we reached a long patch of icy snow.  Trudging along I felt like I really was in the wilderness, and reaching the memorial for a hiker who tragically died on the route only served to remind me how dangerous the trail could be if unprepared for the weather.  The slog to the hut was miserable and foggy but when I saw the hut shimmering in the distance I was so overjoyed.

Ice and snow covered the path

Hraftinnusker is the most remote of the huts, it sits at over 1000 metres and is heated completely from the geyser outside!  As soon as I stepped in I was hit by the warmth of the little hut, in fact I hardly slept that night because of the heat.  The hut was also jam packed as the kind Icelandic warden could not see any hiker sleep outside in the harsh weather that night.